Lasan Review by Ollie Lloyd

It’s been a few years since my first visit to Lasan, tucked down James Street, a stones throw from St Paul’s Square.

Upon entering the restaurant I am instantly impressed by the change in layout and ambiance. Previously I felt Lasan was a lovely space, elegant yet cosy with a subtle nod to India in its minimal decor yet the new arrangement and design feels really inspired.

A stunning low lit wooden panelled bar area with blue and brown leather stools and chairs, Indian floor tiles and distressed wooden features greet us as we are offered a wine list and menus and offered the opportunity to have an aperitif before we dine.

The main dining room feels fresh with its white walls, warm brightness and large scattered mirrors, allowing your eyes to wander over the quirky Indian artefacts dotted around the walls oozing cultural and historical interest.

There is grandness about the place, a sense of Indian class and the service matches with waiters discreetly keeping an eye on everyone’s needs.

We are sat in a corner allowing us to take in the whole room, now full of diners discreetly chatting away. The menu has much choice, and the description of every offering provokes instant salivation.

A beautiful medley of meats, inspired by different regions of India, all packed with flavour and balanced out by the zang of the chutney which holds so much perfect coriander flavour.

Certain dishes stand out to our tastes more and so to start with we have Awadhi Murgh, a smooth-smoked Awadhi chicken pate kebab, malai sheek and sindhi chicken served with fresh coriander chutney.

A beautiful medley of meats, inspired by different regions of India, all packed with flavour and balanced out by the zang of the chutney which holds so much perfect coriander flavour.

To compliment the meats we also chose the Harleem from the starter menu, a hearty Hyderabadi mutton stew of Slow-cooked pickled shallots, pearl barley, five varieties of lentils and crisp salt lamb. This really was a triumph, like a King’s dahl, perfect textures of the lentils with the lamb complimenting each mouthful.

For our mains we went for the Nellore Chappa, a fresh pan-fried halibut with crispy curry leaf and chilli pakora in a delicious allepy sauce and the Sikandari Raan, a tender, slow-roasted shank of lamb marinated in a smoky mix of Kashmiri chilli, ground coriander, hung yogurt and garam masala, served with dhal makhani and raita.

Both dishes were stunning, from the lightness and sweetness of the sauce perfectly accompanying the halibut, to the moist flakiness of the lamb, each mouthful so moreish and delicate.

As we sat there allowing our evening to digest, the atmosphere and attention to detail, from the food to the décor, just reminded me of why I loved Lasan, it is unique and elegant yet does not forget its Birmingham roots, and long may that continue. We shall be back Lasan, save a space at the bar and a table for two. My love of this place is now even greater!

Review by Ollie Lloyd.

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