I’ve been lucky enough to sample Temper & Brown’s Reggae Roasts, and various small plates on two other occasions, all of which have been soul warming, so the chance to dine at their most recent Brazilian pop-up Sem Fronteiras (Without Borders) was an occasion met with great anticipation.
Sem Fronteiras is the brainchild of Leonardo Diogo and local lad Jordan Scott.
On this cold December night, Temper & Brown offered a warm low lit hide-away from craziness of the German Markets.
My arrival was early, which allowed Leonardo time to explain that the menu is part inspired by his home town Belo Horizonte in the central-western Brazilian state of Minas Gerais. The menu takes influence from the heritage and work places of that region.
It does not take long for a member of staff to deliver a Caipirinha, a signature Brazilian cocktail, to my high table and it sure packed a punch.
The Seabream Ceviche arrives from the kitchen quickly, there is a buzz about the place this evening. This consists of sarza criolle, beetroot panther’s milk and canchita. It had a fresh seafood taste with delicate salsa dancing on my taste-buds and the occasional crunch of roasted sweetcorn.
Without too much fuss, and a now busying up Temper & Brown, Leonardo brout out a pre-menu bite, Poa de quejjo, which is a mini cheese bread bap with smoked bacon. This is a popular breakfast in Minas Gerais. It is tiny, and tasty, and creates a bit of wonder of what is to come.
In-between servings, Leonardo explains this is their second pop-up, however, these boys have great heritage, having already cut their teeth in highly rated Chakana of Moseley.
The Seabream Ceviche arrives from the kitchen quickly, there is a buzz about the place this evening. This consists of sarza criolle, beetroot panther’s milk and canchita. It had a fresh seafood taste with delicate salsa dancing on my taste-buds and the occasional crunch of roasted sweetcorn. The radish offered a sprinkling of fire and by time I had reached the last juices on this tiny plate, everything came together in one amalgam of Brazilian paradise – I simply wanted more.
Sem Fronteiras’ Bangers And Mash consisted of a curly handmade sausage with cassava mash. It was deeply delicious. The smokey sausage small yet perfectly formed, complemented by an other-wordly smooth and creamy mash – just wow!
..a north Brazilian-African heritage. The palm heart and smoked urucun oil allowed the soft fish a slight kick as it melted into a sleek sensual seduction of flavours.
For those that don’t know (I didn’t until this day) Frijoada with orange, fried greens and bacon farofa is a national Brazilian dish, and it arrived piping hot. Imagine the best ever mince with gravy, as a stew, very salty but insanely moreish and hearty even for a small dish. I think this was definitely a highlight of my day.
My savoury finale came in the form of a Fish stew ‘Moqueca Red Mullet’ with palmito, piquillo and coriander. Its base consists of coconut milk and palm oil and hails from a north Brazilian-African heritage. The palm heart and smoked urucun oil allowed the soft fish a slight kick as it melted into a sleek sensual seduction of flavours.
..that bloody Brigadeiro nearly made me miss my next train as I could not stop scooping it into my mouth..
I managed to chat to both Leonardo and Jordan before a quick tour of the dessert menu, both came across as highly passionate, professional and affable with a good sense of humour, expect big things of these guys.
With limited time left to sample the sweets, I had a whirlwind tour of Sagu (of north Brazilian origin with a Brummie twist of coconut milk and UK berries), Petifore banana popcorn, and Brigadeiro (pacoca ice cream and chocolate), and honestly, all three were so gorgeous.. but that bloody Brigadeiro nearly made me miss my next train as I could not stop scooping it into my mouth, I didn’t know which dessert to eat, and leave, with the clock ticking but I did a pretty good job of finishing it all off hopefully.
I said my farewells, and as I left, I noticed the cool video playing on Temper’s TVs of Brum over the decades, including TV footage of Birmingham City’s 1930s soccer clash with Manchester City, can’t help but smile at how Roifield (owner of Temper & Brown) and his team, are doing more to keep the Brummie spirit alive than all the people moaning about the good old days at every given opportunity on social media.. with amazing Brazilian food, in a vibey Jewellery Quarter setting, things never been better in my opinion, and amen to that!
I sincerely look forward to seeing what Sem Fronteiras get up to next.. watch this space!
Words by Nick Byng for Grapevine Birmingham.